Tuesday, November 30, 2021

Jewelry Common Sense

Jewelry Repair

Photos by Richard Alan | Hollow Jewelry.

I’m a goldsmith who owns a jewelry store, and that means we make our own jewelry and also repair jewelry that people break. It’s sad but true that jewelry will break in time; like decades for example! Wear out, get mistreated or you purchased inferior quality and it constantly needs repair. I’m also proud to say we rarely repair jewelry that was purchased from us, and that’s a fact. 

I can’t count how many times when inspecting people’s jewelry with my trained eye and see problems that are present or about to occur and get lambasted because of it. Remember how they asked me to “look at their jewelry” to make sure everything is okay? And when its not, its as if the sky is falling or something.  

“I’ve had that ring for over 30 years and my mother and grandmother wore it before that! I never had a problem with it!”  

The keyword here is worn 30 years,’ plus two more generations. Any piece of jewelry worn 24/7 for years on end is going to need attention. Gemstones, even diamonds can scratch, chip, or even shatter and this includes your guaranteed “unbreakable diamonds. 

Yes, diamonds can chip, break and even get turned into diamond dust. If you were unaware of this fact, you probably read too many Superman Comics when you were a kid. 

Also included in the mix is the wear and tear of the mounting(s) that holds the gems or diamonds, the settings or prongs that hold the gem wear down with age to absolutely nothing. Prongs simply get broken off by what life throws at themsmacking it against hard objects such as car doors, shopping carts, granite countertops, pots and pans, or your husbands hard skull because he refuses to do the dishes. By the way, it is not a good idea to expose valuable rings to the damage that can be caused by chlorinated pools, working on cars, boatsmotorcycles or even simple gardening—just a suggestion. You can go ahead and ignore it, but I’ll be seeing you soon.  

The “Ring Diagram” explains the jargon for the parts of a simple stone ring beside the prongs, lower ring shanks and under galleries wear especially if worn with other ringssuch as an engagement and wedding band. The constant friction of the rings rubbing together will eventually take its toll, tacking them together will keep them centered and reduce the wear immediately. 

Having the jewelry you constantly wear inspected every six months or so will ensure against valuable stone loss. My shop (The Harbor Goldsmith) never charges for a simple cleaning and thorough inspection. 

Neck chains, bracelets, even anklets are also in need of repair due to constant wear, spring catches fail regularly here in Southwest Florida, this is mainly caused by wearing them in the pool or swimming in saltwater that will rust and corrode the steel spring inside most precious metal catches. I have mentioned this numerous times, chlorinated pool water will damage your jewelry making it irreparable. All the small connecter rings (jump rings) can wear and fail, causing the loss of the entire chain and whatever you have hanging on it. And don’t forget to check the loops or bails on the pendants or medals themselves they can also wear through and drop off. 

Earrings should be checked for security, friction backs should fit tightly especially diamond stud earrings, if your earrings are really valuable, have screw backs or other special backs installed for peace of mind. 

Ring Diagram.

Worn or broken diamond or gemstone tennis bracelets are constantly being repaired in my shop. They are a problem because they are generally in bad shape and they have as many as fifty links that need attention. Plus, nine times out of ten, I find it is actually more costeffective to remove the stones and reset into a new bracelet. It is important to make sure the clasp and safety catches are snapping closed and functioning properly to prevent loss. 

Ring sizing is an everyday occurrence in the shop, but there is some common sense involvednever get a ring sized while you are pregnant, dieting or after physical activity, and especially if it’s 98 degrees with 95% humidity. The last thing I like to hear is “My husband wants to make his ring a little bit larger!”  

A little bit larger is not a system of measurementyou have to bring in the husband or the finger! Otherwise, it will not be the proper size and will have to be readjusted, because you insisted a little was okay and it ended up having to be a lot larger. Sizing gold or platinum rings is not an inexpensive process, I am using my gold and platinum that’s at premium cost, it also includes labor and expertise, you will most certainly be charged to do it over again. Get it right the first time. 

There is no such thing as making a ring a little larger or a smidge smallerHonestlylisten to the jeweler sizing your finger, he or she has done the process thousands of times and knows what he or she is doing. All rings are tight in summer months and loose in colder environments, that’s a fact of liferings get tight after weekend from a fried food feeding frenzy, and from many salty foods. Once again, listen to your spouse and lay off the breadit’s not the ring that changes sizesit’s the person wearing it. Large knuckles present a problem fitting a ring properly.  

Last but not least, proper jewelry repair is a lost artcan be expensive, and not everybody is skilled at doing it correctly. So, if it is done quickly and cheaply… BEWARE. 

The cutrate repair job can cause more damage to your cherished piece of jewelry than helping it; the result is a more expensive bill to remedy the cutrate “jeweler’s” damage. A properly executed and finished jewelry repair should look like the day you bought it or received it, shiny and happy… if it doesn’t find a better jewelry repair shop. 

Richard Alan is a designer/goldsmith and owner of the Harbor Goldsmith of Marco Island. Working on the bench with his son Andrew by his side creating and repairing jewelry with more than half a century in combined experience, they are well known for their expertise and professionalism in the art of jewelry repair & restoration here in South West Florida and abroad. We welcome your questions about “All That Glitters.” You can reach us at our websitewww.harborgoldsmith.com. 

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